Back to school: what we did on our holidays

From staying at a BBPR-designed house on Lake Maggiore to design and art destinations in Portugal and Spain, plus a personal Greek trilogy – here’s some of what we did on our holidays

Tony: In-laws with benefits

A BBPR-designed house on Lake Maggiore
Founded in Milan in 1932 by Gian Luigi Banfi, Lodovico Barbiano di Belgiojoso, Enrico Peressutti and Ernesto Nathan Rogers (the cousin of Richard Rogers’ father), BBPR were a studio of architects, urban planners and designers. They quickly became one of the leading exponents of modern Italian design. 

I was fortunate to spend a blissful week at one of their lesser-known masterworks – Casa Zanetta, built in 1963 on Lake Maggiore. The house was recently bought and beautifully restored by close family, and when they needed help with dog-sitting, I felt it was the least I could do.

Architectural photography by Carla De Benedetti
Portrait of BBPR sourced from Archivio Studio BBPR

Georgia: Food for thought

Austa, Portugal
Having visited the Algarve for the best part of 40 years (yes, I first went as a newborn), I have seen it transform in countless ways. Yet, in recent years the region seems to have entered an era defined not just by its rugged coastline, but by brilliant new design-led ventures.

A great example is Austa, a restaurant in Almancil which I have frequented since it opened in 2023, designed by the Lisbon-based Studio Gameiro. Rather than relying on generic modern luxury, Gameiro anchored the room with a four-metre-long bench carved from ancient local rock salt (230 million years old, no less, cut by hand from a nearby mine). Combined with soft lime stucco walls, custom aluminium furniture, and warm copper accents, it mirrors the raw, sun-baked textures of southern Portugal. It is a testament to how heritage craftsmanship can be reinterpreted into award-winning contemporary design.

Callum: A Greek summer… in London

The Oresteia
Watching the lives of a family brutally unravel in Simon Stone’s ‘The Oresteia’ was a gripping reminder of how the destructive cycle of justice and revenge is as vicious as ever. Showing at the Bridge Theatre until the 19th September, the 458 BC tragedy has been modernised around a contemporary family, all encased in one of Stone’s signature glass boxes.

Electra/Persona
I was lucky enough to go and see a late dress rehearsal of Benedict Andrews’ sold-out, two-part play. Half Greek tragedy (based loosely on the second part of ‘The Oresteia’, funnily enough) and half Swedish art-house (via Ingmar Bergman’s 1966 film ‘Persona’), the play features Cate Blanchett and Nina Hoss. Seeing them tackle the intensity of the script right before opening night felt like sneaking a peek at a clash of two titans.

Odyssey-less
I might end up being the last person see ‘The Odyssey’, but once I do, it will complete my own personal Greek trilogy.

Fred: Macca, Moore and more…

Theatreship
Canary Wharf doesn’t often come to mind when you mention ‘independent arts venue’, but Theatreship is a hidden gem amongst the suits. The volunteer-led vessel from 1913 screens classic cinema alongside a roster of music and theatre. A recent screening of ‘A Hard Day’s Night’, part of the BFI’s ‘Rip It Up’ series pairing films with rising bands, was a surreal break from a hot summer in the city.

Perry Green
Henry Moore’s Hertfordshire home for more than 40 years, Perry Green is an idyllic mix of studio chaos and sculptural beauty. To escape the bank holiday crowds, I ventured into the countryside to see Moore’s monumental sculptures looming large amongst the gardens and fields. At least Kew didn’t nick them all…

Institut Valencià d'Art Modern
Valencia may be best known for oranges and paella, but it has quietly become a hub of modern art and design on Spain's Mediterranean coast. IVAM (Institut Valencià d'Art Modern) houses one of the world's largest collections of Julio González's pioneering sculptures, while an exhibition exploring the representation of women in his work, and that of his daughter Roberta González, is the perfect excuse to escape the midday heat for an air-conditioned afternoon.